Masterpiece Landscaping Blog

November 2, 2011

Why is our 2011 November landscape garden so Beautiful?

If you have been ‘playing’  in your landscape garden the past month you may have noticed that this October of our year, 2011, was special…..If so, why?

My grounds throughout is at its most colorful best this early November   than  in all the 37 years I have lived here in the Hopkins area.  It is a landscape garden about 1/2 acre in size, laid out over the years by my passion to create beauty in the land over which I have domain while I live.

I have noticed I have been  spending more time ‘being there’ in the garden the last few weeks than previous Octobers.   Beauty has its lure.   It sure beats drugs by anyone’s observation, I would think.  I noticed yesterday and today, I’ve been  loathe to  leave  its  beauty, so I  have been manufacturing  various tasks to  keep me here.  

These tasks are governed by the garden’s beauty.    I prune, rake, cut back some perennial foliage, clean fallen leaves from the conifers…..nothing well organized, nothing planned, simply enjoying a daily three mile walk or more walking its paths, “Being there”…..and thinking why is this year’s Autumn so special in my landscape garden?

We have had no killing frost here.   I think that’s the answer.   There have been only two evenings when the temperature dropped to 31 or 32 degrees Fahrenheit.   Statistically,  October 10th has been  the average date for killing frosts in our Twin City area.   That is nearly a month ago.

We don’t have much sunshine these days.   The maples, Ohio Buckeye, Kentucky Coffeetree dropped their leaves by  mid October.   There are no garden  shadows without sunlight.  And November is Minnesota’s most cloudy month, meaning that in the landscape garden there is no shade from the major trees by late October, except from oaks.   If there is no sunlight, there is no shade, and with no killing frost, color at ground level to small tree level is not only still displayed, but not visually  damaged.

Most of all, this color can be seen from left to right and right to left in its entirety.   No killing frost allows many garden perennials to extend their bloom, no longer  in mass but as high lights and small groups.   Their foliage, led by the chartreuse, yellow, gold, and orange of large hosta clumps throughout the grounds, many floppy, still  display a coloring never before seen in such quantity during the growing season.    Some hostas, such as   June and El Nino, are still in their summer season form and  color.  

The fire colors of the major barberries and the maroons of the colored ninebarks, velvet cloak and grace smokebushes and white oaks in the distance, and all of the seed pods, blackened dead or golden brown, the blue from late summer blooming geraniums and reds from fothergilla, my annually pruned red oak at the back door entry to my chocolate brown-red sided house is nearly beyond inspiring.

Then I walk my paths and notice a large clump of Korean lilac , whose autumn color beauty I haven’t seen for many years……a color of soft, dusty, pink, tan, rust, orange all blendings  on leaves the size and appearance  of butterflies resting enmasse on the lilac’s autumn  ’twigs’.

Yet, no matter how beautiful the colors of this scenery I have described  may be in anyone’s eyes, they are insignificant without the most important color and collection of plants to glorify the setting……the greens of our evergreen conifers, from ground covers to magnificent trees.   It is they who are now entering our Minnesota garden world dominating its beauty until mid May every year,  that command its  scenes.

Until this  week, the most inspired I have ever been by  my landscape garden was in early February some nine  years ago, at 3:30 AM in a light snowfall of large snowflakes sparkling from a full moon  peeking through the cloud cover.

I was to go to a colleague’s wedding in Hawaii…..and I thought no place in the world could be more beautiful than the scene  I was leaving.   I went to the wedding in Maui.  Everything was beautiful, but not as beautiful as that morning.

Nor is the color of today’s display, but it is its equal.

Use your own imagination, fellow Minnesotans.   What setting without color  could be as or more beautiful than this year’s extended,  special Autumn,  in Winter?  Picture it yourself.

I doubt it could be a garden scene without the beautiful forms of our Northern  conifers and silhouettes of  what they enframe on a moonlit evening graced by huge sparkling snowflakes.

The most important plants in our Northern landscape gardens are the evergreen conifers!!!

 Winter is our longest landscape season…..as long as Spring, Summer and Autumn put together.

Check out your own landscape where you live.   If you think there could be improvements, please give us at Masterpiece Landscaping a call  at 952-933-5777.   We can help solve your landscape problems.

February 14, 2011

Schedule for your Rose “Family” Tree Prunings in February and March

Filed under: Pruning, shrubs and trees — glenn @ 7:56 pm

As we have mentioned before some of our favorite flowering and fruiting trees here in the Northland are members of the Rose family…..Anything “Prunus” , the plums, pears, apricots, and cherries, and “Malus” , the apples and crabapples.  Add to this list the Mountain Ashes, Sorbus, and the Hawthorns, Crataegus.  

There are a number of shrubs in the Rose family as well, cotoneaster and ninebark, for example, but their value in the garden rarely rises that of losing a beautiful tree to the dread disease, “Fireblight”. They are susceptible but not that common in the population.    

Fireblight is a bacterial disease and is distinguished by a hooking of ends of twigs and a blackening of that  foliage.    Generally, it needs wind and rain to move the bacteria from infected tree nearby.   If you are fairly certain there is no Fireblight in your neighborhood, I still would recommend that if your Rose family trees need pruning,  mid February to mid March is by far the best time.

Fireblight is not known to infect nonRose family plants.

If you do have a tree already infected, it might be salvageable by applying a bactericide.   Click here for further information:  http://www.ncw.wsu.edu/treefruit/fireblight/control.htm

This year, primarily due to the heavy and massive snow storm of November 13, 2010, many of your understory trees including your conifers might have been damaged.   Don’t automatically cut the tree out.   Call Masterpiece at 952-933-5777 and schedule our artistic pruning skills to restore character to your understory trees, whether of the Rose family or not.

November 16, 2010

The November 13, 2010 Snowstorm

In the 36 years of living at my grounds all of the damage ever done to my landscape grounds added together does not equal the damage which occurred last Saturday, November 13, 2010.

I live just west of Hopkins in the western suburbs.   My little piece of heaven received over 20 inches of the very heavy wet stuff over about an 8 hour period.  Ten to fifteen trees and shrubs were shredded, stripped of lateral branches or main stems cracked in half.

I had spent about six hours fighting the snow cover, carefully  knocking off  globs upon globs of sticky stuff without stop…..except to retire to the house for ten minutes or enough time to replace the boots, pants, jacket and all with drier  boots, pants, jacket and all, placing the wet into the clothes drier,  and go back okutside to battle the elements.

After four such exercises it all came to a halt when the power went out……and stayed out for more than 24 hours.

It is a gloomy life in Minnesota in a gloomy, dark and ever getting colder house when there is no power in winter time.

The worst hit were my maturing white pines, especially the beautiful specimen just north of my house.   Six or seven 6″ plus thick branches snapped of and came crashing down to the ground taking other branches along with……and crushing anything and everything beneath.

My spectacula flowering crab apple at pondside split in half as did the younger specimen out front.

I saved all of the ten or so deGroots arborvitae, but some will look rough until next spring.   I also saved my 17 foot PJM Rhododendron in the front garden, but it has slumped about two feet for a while.

My deer fences were broken and in many areas became frozen to the ground requiring extra effort today to dig them out and resurrect them.

I could go on and on, but it might get depressing for all.

Some clients have called regarding damage in their own grounds.

Here are some good generalizations.

Evergreen shrubs both global and spreaders…..

Both junipers and arborvitae are easily crunched under weighty wet snow.  Last year 8 foot arborvitae globes disappeared under the snow until Spring thaw. 

Arborvitae foliage is breakfast, lunch and supper for a host of animals, including rabbits and mice.  When its foliage is buried under snow, the smaller varmints nesting close by, don’t have to move to far to set up life in a candy and steak house all in one.   The word arbor…vitae means tree of life, for the exceptional amount of vitamin C held in its foliage.  Mice and rabbits know a good healthy meal when they see or smell one.

If you permit the arborvitaes to be buried under snow all winter, you might find the rodents have finished off the foliage below the snow line…..not a pretty sight.    I had a specimen Siberian Arborvitae buried in snow early last December and never saw it again until spring thaw.  The entire plant had been ravaged by hungry rodents which with the broken branchings, made the plant hardly worth saving.   It was 25 years old and in perfect shape. 

I save its general appearance by careful pruning in Spring, but it no longer served well as a background screen with all of the foliage under 4 feet eaten away.

Of all of the conifers, don’t worry too much about yews.  Yew wood is exceedingly strong and isn’t likely to snap over anything much like snow. 

Some upright confifers  will tip completely over due to the wet ground around the crown area.   If the tree can be uprighted and stabilized, it should recover in Spring as if nothing ever happened.

Most deciduoud shrubs bend and look deformed after such a snowfall as last Saturday, but they aren’t much threatened.

If the tree is rather of a tender variety, such as a redbud or a special magnolia, and some branches have split, a decision must be made as to when to do the pruning.  If the tree is perfectly hard in our garden zone, such as a white oak or  green ash, you can do all of your pruning corrections now without worry….for the tree most likely will not be further injured because of a major cold snap.

With pears, apricots,  apples, or crabapples, all members of the rose family on might want to wait to prune until late February paying attention not to add more exposed wood to the extreme cold  which might add winter cold  injury to the snowfall injury.

For these rose family plants and the plums, it is best  to do whatever prunings in late February or early March….late enough into winter for the plant to harden off well, and early enough for the wounds to heal sufficiently to reduce chances of being exposed to fireblight bacteria in the later spring…..a killer disease of all of these rose family trees.

When you are removing snow from your trees and shrubs, especially the evergreen conifers, be sure not to press up on the middle bow of the branch between the tree and the tip of the brance weighted down to the ground by the heavy snow.  Pressing up on that strained bow of the woody trunk may snap and break the stem in half…..expecially true of junipers and arborvitae.  Try to loosen any foliage stuck to the ground ice from the foliage area only and stir it gently to free each branch.

Keep this also in mind as you weary quickly working in the snow…..you will wear out more quickly in  snowy conditions than in the joy of summer.

Some small trees are especially susceptible to winter snow damage….the showy crabapples for one.

The wood splits easily, especially if the tree is laden with decorative fruit.

October 19, 2010

Autumn Duties for the Landscape Gardener

What are the regular routines for the Landscape Gardener to maintain the home grounds in the best condition going into winter?

Watering:   There is much debate over what the autumn to late autumn watering schedule should be for the Twin City area landscaped grounds.  Some ‘professors’ profess continued regular watering until the hard frosts; others suggest withholding water gradually to assist the plants hardening off for the cold misery of winter.  Plants here usually mean woody plants.

Not all plants are equal.  Herbaceous perennials are much more ephemeral in the grounds than cold tolerant trees and shrubs.  Not all autumns are equal either.  This passing October was wet at first and then decided to move into a beautiful season of cool, sunny, colorful, gorgeous and DRY Minnesota autumn…..going waterless  on almost three weeks now….and I think it is great even though I have had to use the sprinkler since I had my irrigation system winterized early this year.

In this case I believe watering the shrubs and trees about every fourth day at twenty minutes or so a spot, during such a period would be enough.  Soil type can be a factor if you are unlucky enough to garden over soil of heavy clay.   Sandy soils are much easier to manage with watering……less intensity but more frequency than normal.   Clay soils which have not dried out during the heat of summer to brick, don’t need to be watered much in the autumn regardless of the temperatures.  Hot, dry October winds might cause some reconsiderations.

October temperatures are cool.  Heavy watering can be damaging to some conifers which become shaded with the sun ”falling’ toward the horizon here in our Northland.  Foliar disease are especially ravaging on Colorado Blue Spruce.  Others damage tree yews.   Symptoms most observed are the withering of the interior older foliage.   Yews begin to lose their yellowing needles in late Spring.  Blue spruce will show a gray to brown sickly dried up crop of old needles and be dropping them about now.    One of my white pines has a foliar disease similar to these.

Shade, moisture, and lack of air movement to dry off the foliage reliably, are the collective causes of the unsightly disfuguration to many of our conifers.

Should hostas and other perennials be pruned back in fall or spring?   I grow hostas because they offer an artistic plus to my grounds, not because I am a hosta guru.  My entire grounds is a landscape garden.   Not all hostas are equal.  Some hold attractive foliage into very late autumn and others don’t.   Some are less hardy than others.   I cut back foliage on those whose foliage no longer please me IF I have time to do this clean up. 

However, there is one note which must stand firm and deeply in the Minnesota landscape gardener’s understanding of the onslaught of winter upon cherished garden plants, woody or not…..

The greatest threat to Minnesota landscape garden plants is the autumn disaster of temperatures dropping below ten below zero or more, Fahrenheit,  before Thanksgiving, and anything around twenty below zero before Christmas WITHOUT  snow. 

Snow is nature’s best insulator for outdoor plants.  The second best is certain kinds of leaf cover…..namely the kind called oak leaves.   Others may work or may cause additional troubles to garden plants.  I let oak leaves go where they may in my autumn garden.

Oak leaves are crinkly and don’t break down rapidly even despite wet weather.  They create air pockets over whatever ground the manage to cover.   If the gardener waits till Spring to cut back dead perennial foliage, the plant will be somewhat better protected through  a snowless frigid spell when  leaves of any kind are captured by any plant  ”stalks”. 

I am the only  groundskeeper of my landscape grounds.  Time available usually dictates my scheduling for manicuring the fall garden. 

Two years ago I lost four spreading yews and one twenty foot upright yew to winter kill.   The plants were in the garden for over fifteen years.   There was plenty of snow cover.  However, sometime in January over a weekend when the temperature had dropped to minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit, there was a steady thirty mile an hour wind from the North for two days.   A good friend in Waseca, Marian Fischer,  was certain her similar losses were due to that January windstorm.  

There is always the unexpected.

Major pruning of woody plants should wait until Spring, the earlier, usually the better.  The more one knows about pruning, the more one can safely disobey this recommendation, however.

Ideally, pruning  of apple, crabapple and pear trees should be done in late February or early March, to avoid the spread of  the bacterial disease called “Fireblight”.

So many special plants now growing in our more up-to-date landscaped grounds may require exceptional treatment for winter care for which we have no reliable information except for our own observations.

Those of you who live in the center Twin Cities and the immediate suburbs are now living in horticultural zone FIVE……. My ideal garden zone.  Where I live, west of Minneapolis, I can grow many zone five plants but I have be call my area, zone four and a half. 

Zone Five Japanese Beetles visited my grounds for the first time in known history this past summer.  One has to take the bad with the good if one is a devoted Landscape Gardener……And Japanese beetles are not good…..but if that is what it takes to get a little Global Warming to reach Zone five, I’ll accept it.

Many who live in the city have a serious rabbit and mouse problem…..especially in grounds surrounded by entrapping fencing.   Trap and kill, most serious landscape gardeners recommend.  Chicken wire fencing around the most susceptible plants such as Winged Euonumous or some of the Viburnums.     Some tender gardeners trap and relocate…..but that can go on for weeks and months.

I will recommend nothing here.  It is your call, dear fellow landscape gardener.

February 6, 2010

Some Ornamental Trees Must Be Pruned in Late Winter

Filed under: Pruning — glenn @ 10:02 pm

Remember, mid February to late March  is the best time of the year to prune your apple and crabapple, pear, plum and mountain ash trees.  All of thes fruit bearing woody plants are members of the rose family and are susceptible to a deadly bacterial disease, fireblight.  If pruned during the growing season, in spring especially, there is great risk for infection particularly if fireblight happens to be active in the neighborhood or if following your pruning, the weather turns wet and windy.

Creating a beautiful form  should be, ideally,  a major consideration  when pruning any of these trees, especially  plums, Waneta, Superior, or the native wild American plum.

Pruning apples and  crabapples can be a more difficult task…Some cultivars are not very small,    and most overproduce ugly, stiff,  twiggy, and thorny  branchlets which often cross one another.  In order to reestablish beauty of form to some older crabapple and apple trees, pruning is often required annually for three or four years and alternately for  years after that.   Pruning after a long period of time of  no pruning will usually cause numerous vertical shoots often of great length the next year…two to four feet in one growing season which make the trees appear quite ugly usually.

These vertical spears are called, “watersprouts”.

Some pruning of crabapples in early March  every year reduces the numbers of watersprouts.

Careful and clever pruning can create beautful trees.

If you planted a tree of any kind  last year in a space too small for its eventual size, you can 1) transplant it, or, 2) if you are clever with your pruning skills, and  will religiously prune   the big tree to keep it  small in its space, you can control its shape and size.  Warning, don’t neglect the pruning…once year will be enough.

Last year I finally had to remove a beautiful 20 plus year old white oak, only 7 feet tall, a seedling planted by the squirrels.  I had pruned it annually to maintain the shape and size which I had artistically designed.  I am fond of white oaks.  But I cannot allow for them to block out the little sunlight I have allowed my flowering perennials.   I often maintain these oaks as shrubs or small trees.  they add good  color to the fall garden, sometimes even into the winter, for most retain their rust colored leaves well into winter.  Pruning a single stem three year old oak almost to the ground will create a multiple stemmed tree.  Such prunings ideally should be done early April.

Check your calendar.  If you are too busy or timid to prune your rose family trees, call Masterpiece Landscaping, Ltd. at 952-933-5777.   We will make your tree an art piece again.

August 19, 2009

Grooming The Landscape Garden

Filed under: Pruning — glenn @ 5:25 pm

The landscape gardener is constantly evaluating the state of the gardened grounds.

During these weeks of  tired summer there generally is more color throughout the grounds than at other seasnons.   Herbaceous plants are bigger, paths become narrower, and there is no space left for the chrysanthemums you were planning on buying to shore up the autumn look.

This is a good time for grooming the garden.  Tools are needed.  Quality tools, not those cheaply made types.  Hand pruners, lopper, hedge shears, small garden saw, large garden saw, garden spade  make up the classic collection.  Flat spade might also be used if edging had not been done earlier in the season.  Leaf rakes and snow shovels are seasonal implements which might involve some grooming.

I rarely wander through my garden without my hand pruners.  My eyes automatically draw me to the disorderly and if it is prunable, almost without a thought my mental machine has removed the offending form.  I call this grooming.   The hand pruners is the most important tool for grooming garden plants.

Removing all or some of  the flower stalks from my huge hostas, (some stalks quite ugly even when in bloom) can be done at the same time one strolls through the garden admiring its beauty.

If one can stroll through ones grounds at any season and not notice beauty, dear fellow Americans….there is something very wrong with arrangements made on your grounds!Home is not quite home as it should be.  (Time to call us at Masterpiece Landscaping, Ltd..952-933-5777 !)

If your home is like mine, every year expanding government is expanding taxes on my landscape garden where my house is located.  Government does not often tax garden beauty, yet, so I want the best visual and spiritual return for my tax dollar as I walk up and down the paths of my paradise.

Major reforming of more mature woody plants should almost always be done in early spring.  This activity is not to be considered grooming.  It often involves  major surgery.  Garden saws, pole saws, loppers, spade shovels, are among the tools more commonly used for this kind of heavy duty grooming.  An axe might be needed in a final analysis, especially if all else goes wrong.  We can review the surgery in another blog entry.

As one passes the Winged Euonymus or the Pagoda Dogwood in the August garden, one might notice sprigs arising from an otherwise clean and attractive bark.  Or certain branchings don’t look right.  Here, the garden loppers come into use.  Eventually your trained eye will have your  pruners removing these objects of discontent without the thought ever bothering the mind.  This is a good stage of landscape garden education for these little grooming acts can be done almost subconsciously.  They will not interfere with the sweet elixir of  pleasure caused  by the beauty of your landscape as you stroll, almost in a trance, admiring all of the pictures you and Nature have created……

……..that is, if your plants have been cleverly chosen, have been placed in their proper locations, and you know why you have done what you have done.  Once your artistry has reached the combination of all three of these skills, you have passed the elementary school of fortunate luck.

One of the unfortunate causes for  atrocious home grounds landscape gardening  in general,  is that even in the most disorderly designs there might be  a degree of attraction  if  just one “something” in the grounds is in bloom.   Ugliness in the landscape is often very public.  One has to enter a theater to see a bad movie, play, or opera, and usually has to even buy a ticket to get in.  One can easily avoid reading corrupt newspapers or a mess of a book or staring at blank or otherwise stupid canvases called modern art.

It is very difficult however to avoid mishandled landscape gardens created or not created in the name of art.  A broken urn behind three petunias and a marigold, bed springs placed delicately as if growing beside a small spring, a Baby’s Breath covered with Creeping Charlie behind a bicycle tire with  a sign leaning on it announcing  “LOVE”  …… all of this rich meaning in the front yard and unscreened.  Yet, it  will be seen by every innocent  who had the misfortune to  take a wrong turn and had to see it whether he or she wanted to or not.

In another neighborhood, such as the Whitney Museum , given a twist of a title such as “American Injustice”, a New Yorker  might be thrilled to pay $107 plus sales and entertainment tax for a ticket and feel modern and correct doing so.  Yet, another may not and could easily avoid doing so by remaining outdoors.

In closing this blog article I must add a couple other instruments useful when grooming the landscape garden….FINGERS, especially the thumb and its index neighbor.  Supple knees and a good back able to endure stretching are good accompaniments.

One bends at the knees reaches for a “weed”, defined as a plant out of place, hopefully a pullable one, and pulls it.

Most landscape gardeners do enjoy this ritual. I do.  One feels so clean after a period of such an intimate exercise,  especially when the disorder comes out of its habitat root and all.  Oh, the pleasure of it all.

August 11, 2009

To Prune or Not to Prune?

Filed under: Pruning — glenn @ 6:11 pm

To prune or not to prune during late summer? Not in September, landscape gardeners. …not unless you have no choice or the pruning will be very light.  We are refering to woody plants, of course.

As a generalization, the best time to prune  your woody plants is in early spring……with the exceptions:  1) certain deciduous plants whose blooms you value and want to show off during the coming season,  and 2) certain evergreen conifers such as pine, fir,  and spruce.   Plants in both of these categories should not be pruned in late summer or fall.

Pruning out broken limbs, die back, or very light corrective pruning  usually can be done at any time of the year.

Some deciduous shrubs can be pruned to the very ground in late fall and produce beautifully the next spring.  The smokebushes, (Cotinus) hardy usually in the Twin City area is an example.  Black Lace Elderberry is another.

Most arborvitae, juniper, hemlock and yew can be trimmed or gently reshaped in late summer or autumn.  Radical pruning is not recommended.

Those flowering deciduous shrubs whose blossoms you cherish, should be pruned immediately after their peak blooming season.  French lilacs, then,  would be pruned sometime around June 15th, a bit later for the late blooming varieties such as Donald Wyman or Minuet.  VanHouttei Spiraea, often called northern bridal wreath spiraea,  blooms around Memorial Day in the Twin City area, and should be pruned at the same time as the French lilacs.  Most of the rest of the spiraeas develop their flower buds during the same time  as their new spring foliage, called “new wood”.  French lilacs developed their flowering buds the previous late summer and fall  along with last years foliage, which wood would be called “old wood”.