Masterpiece Landscaping Blog

January 13, 2012

2012 - The Winter without a January

at least thus far fellow Northlanders…..

Previous to yesterday the vast majority of my grounds was bare of snow.   Where snow did exist, there was no accumulation, but only a dusting here or there in areas beyond the reach of the Sun.

As most of you readers know, I am thoroughly in favor of our Twin Cities moving into Horticultural zone 5.   In some grounds we are almost there, but msot of those grounds are in the Twin Cities themselves.

Last year we didn’t have a January either exactly.   As you remember we had the abundance of snow fall on November 13.   The ‘dump[ reached 32 inches most places on my grounds.   December came and went, dumping more ‘on the place below”.   And January came and went without any January thaw at all.  

It was good for our snow removal business for we could remove the endless number of ice dams on Twin City roofs.   Suddenly, mid February,  warm breezes, the tantalizing kind feigning Spring, ruined the money-making.   We had to wait another six weeks before the landscape gardening season began in earnest. 

Are there troubles assoicated  with a winter without a January?  

You bet there are.   Last evening the temperature hit our season low, zero degrees Fahrenheit after a month of March weather, but March weather without March snow…..the heavy wet kind. 

Some folks noticed tulip foliage already beginning to pierce the soil line on the south locations of their  house.    Although it is possible some Dutch bulbs might be already lost due to this warm and snowless winter followed by this sudden deep freeze,  it depend upon what temperatures are ‘on the horizon’. 

If there is an extended period of below zero temperatures   without any snow cover, any damage to  tulips will be nothing compared to what might happen to countless far  more valuable woody plant materials of borderline hardiness…..such as the Emperor Japanese Maples,  Forsythia blooms (although nearly all Forsythia shrubs themselves are hardy in the Twin Cities, the exposed wood of the Black Beauty Elderberry,  dieback also on many smokebushes to the ground, although their roots probably will survive.   

Young newly planted hemlocks, yews, yellow foliaged Japanese yews especially might be hard hit, depending upon the quality of the soil in which they have been  planted. 

Dwarf ginkgos might be killed.   Some of those other plants you spent $200 per unit for are also likely to be victimized.

As a rule “dwarfs’ of both deciduous and evergreen shrubs or trees are less hardy than their standard parents.   The ones most susceptible to winter kill from snowlessness are those from parents hardy only to zone 4, and most woody plants of horticultural zone 5. 

What to do to avoid the loss  of some of your favorite more sensitive plants?  

If your landscape garden or garden  border, or flower garden bear  no winter mulch added to the soil around their crowns already and you haven’t a bag or two or twenty filled with oak leaves, unchopped, you might think about applying rags or old sheets around the crowns of the plants possibly endangered.  

Tree  and  Intersectional  peonies might be susceptible to damage…..which reminds me as I write this article I have forgotten   to tend to them thus far.

So I have to run folks!  These peonies demand my attention!

November 14, 2011

It has been very dry in the Garden this Fall. WATER NOW if you can.

This article should be considered a WARNING to any readers who planted or had us or anyone else plant new plant materials on your grounds since about the first of July this year in the Twin City area.

We certainly had a number of rainfalls earlier in the year.   Many were of the plundering type in which the downpour was overwhelming but not terribly helpful to landscape garden plants.   Following these deluges, we have had a significant drought.   Here in the western part of the Twin Cities where I live, I don’t think we have had an inch of rain over the past two and a half months.

I have an irrigation system which is scheduled to water the grounds for twenty minutes every other day.   It runs early in the morning, except if I am home weekends.   I like to watch my plants watered whenever I have a chance, so I turn the system on manual when I have the time to see the watering.

My irrigation system was winterized over four weeks ago….during a day of light, very light, rain. 

October is usually a drier month in the Twin Cities, and has been so all of my life.   We usually see a good amount of rain here in September.    With the cooler nights approaching cold nights, plant  need for water is not as critical as in warmer months….and the days of sunlight become significantly shorter in the fall, so there is less evaporation.

And remember although tree shade does reduce moisture evaporation from your understory plantings,  the big trees, mainly maples, elms and basswoods hype up their own water needs first and foremost when dry or not dry, for these trees when mature, aren’t protected by shade…….unless maybe by cottonwoods if you live in an area  big enough  to handle them.

Coniferous evergreen trees are not serious water robbers.  Most  respond very well when watering is reliable.

When the temperatures of summer reach or pass the 90 Fahrenheit degree mark, most of our garden plants begin to shut down to save moisture…….if there is no reliable watering available.

By far the greatest killer of  landscape plants, woody or otherwise,  especially among the newly planted,  is from lack of water…..more specifically, the lack of regular reliable watering.  

Soils also play a role in plant deaths due to drought.   I am lucky….actually my plants are lucky to have a great soil environment from which to grow.   There is no clay hereabouts…..for which I am grateful.    My grounds are loamy  by nature and made loamier by years and years of my mulching the grounds with oak leaves.   Only five  per cent of my landscape garden is in lawn…..which takes nine minutes to mow.    The remaining is in garden plants including trees,  and paths…..and my house, of course.

If you live in our area, and have planted or have had planted a  number of perennial plants, woody or herbacous  in your garden this year after mid July, I advise you  to get out your sprinklers this week as soon as possible and water them well.   It will also help your herbaceous perennials to make it through the winter.

November 8, 2011

To Clean or Not to Clean…..that is the November garden question

Filed under: Plant health, battling the Minnesota climate, garden seasons — glenn @ 3:57 pm

Because of this present November being exceptionally dry, pleasant, beautiful, and void of a killing frost until last Wednesday night here in the Twin Cities, landscape gardeners have been able to spend more time than usual amid their garden plants.  These following questions  arise for all of us and our answers may vary from year to year.

To water or not to water? 

Who expected the last part of October to be so dry?……and after a very dry August?   I had my watering system turned off two weeks ago, and had not watered for a week before that.   Yet, I was shocked while planting yesterday to see the soil so dry so deep into the soil.

I immediately hand watered all of the plants planted over the past six weeks…..beginning with the perennials whose root systems are much more endangered by drought.   I am able to use the sprinkler in the major portion of my landscape garden grounds, and again, watered the newer plantings as a priority.  

Overwatering could be a problem after mid August.   Many woody plants begin their winterizing shortly after the summer equinox.   This is called hardening off.   We don’t know much about the specifics regarding the vast numbers of plants now available for our grounds plantings.

We don know that watering heavily well into late autumn keeps some plants in summer growing mode.   They have not been allowed to adjust to the coming of the cold and severe, and can be killed.

About three winters ago, I lost four or five established yews, one of which was a beautiful tree.   I had never lost a yew on my grounds in 35 years of a dozen or more  plants of yew life.   Eventually, I discovered that their deaths occurred from a windy weekend in January.   There was plenty of snow, but with a temperature of ten or more below zero, and winds of twenty miles per hour over a twenty hour period, killed them.   I stayed warm  indoors that weekend day.   My yews had no place to hide.

To clean or not to clean?

This question is difficult to answer.    Fall cleaning the landscape garden is a major project in most grounds.   Size and time dictate the schedule.  Cleaning out the leaves whether from your or your meighbors’ trees makes the grounds appear, well, clean…and neat.   Lawns should be raked for their better health enduring winter.  

No one knows when the first major snowfall will occur.   Last year the tonnage was dumped over night and through the day starting on  Saturday, November 13, here in the Twin City area.   We got hit by a  35 inch heavy snow drop.   Much was damaged, but the ground never froze, because it was covered all winter long by nature’s best insulator, snow.

Plant debris and autumn leaf fall  are  typically blown to  obstacles, such as  neighboring plant stalks which entrap debris which  builds up protecting plant crowns until a sizeable  snowfall.   This is nature’s way some plants endure the rigors of an early winter.  

The real danger to our plants, whether perennials or the  more delicate woody shrubs, or sometimes even to the well established tougher reliables, is the “Test Winter”.

A test winter  is that winter in our Northland when the temperature drops to 10 to 20 degrees below zero Fahrenheit before Christmas without any snow cover.   Perennials are especially vulnerable.   If you had left nature do its thing, leaf debris would have collected  around the stems of such plants for insulation.  It can also be that winter when the temperature drops to minus 30 with a driving wind which can be a real killer for many woody members of the landscape grounds not blessed with snow cover.

To weed or not to weed?  

Weed whenever you can, but remember a weed is “a plant out of place”.

I allow certain plants ‘out of place’  to grow in my grounds within limits.   Red and white oak seedlings, for example.   Both are in beautiful autumn colors….red and maroon and kept within a foot of the ground offer colorful highlights when other colors have already faded.    Pruned Ohio Buckeye seedlings can be made into  an attractive shrub.

Late autumn is an excellent time to scour the landscape grounds for buckthorn seedlings since their leaves are still green at this time.    Every year I come across a four or five foot weed tree of ash, box elder or  other maples, or elm and buckthorn or pagoda dogwood growing handsomely.   How did I miss noticing  these varmints for the past five or six years some even being in full sight as I walk by?   They blended in with the other greens nearby.

To plant or not to plant?    Late autumn isn’t the best time to plant, but survival depends on moisture available and good soil preparation.   Regardless of season, when planting woody materials, make certain that the roots are ‘loosened’, that is freed from the circular pattern forced by the pot in which the plant was housed.

Root bound plants do not have a high rate of survival if transferred from pot to grounds without freeing  up the root system.

To wrap or not to wrap young deciduous trees?

Usually one wraps these trees to protect them from the south and southwest sun during winter.    Some trees, such as young ash, apple, and crabapples, are very susceptible to sun scald, that is, the sun’s strength of warmth usually in February and early March warms up the exposed tissues during a sunny day.   Upon sunset the tissue freezes as the temperature plunges, and destroys the cells, splitting the bark on the south and/or southwest side of the tree.

Another reason for wrapping younger trees is to provide protection from rodents.   Last winter was a terrible, terrible time for trees killed by rodent’s, voles, mice, rabbits,  under the snow eating away at the young bar, girdling the tree, causing its eventual death.    Crabapples, apples, plums, even young oaks were killed.

For some reason wrapping with the corregated “Tree Wrap” confuses the varmints enought to make them forget about bark breakfasts and dinners.     If deer are in your neighborhood these late October and early November days, you know the hunting for does stags, like to sharpen their weapons on trees  up to fifteen inches in girth and your chest level.

This “Tree Wrap” wrapping seems to fool them as well….at least until I get reliable reports suggesting otherwise.

October 6, 2011

Warning to Twin City Homeowners: Water your grounds well this fall

Since our monsoons of early summer, there has been a drought in the general Twin City area.   For well established plants there generally shouldn’t be much concern….as yet.   For newly planted woody plants and perennials regular watering……that is reliable water availability is essential for survival.

A prolonged period of drought has about the same effect on woody plants regardless of soil type.   Plants will wilt and die  sooner in sandy soils.   They also recover sooner, assuming there is enough life stored in the plants for  recover.

Water newer plants placed in sandy soils daily for ten or fifteen minutes during extended dry periods.   Don’t include a few drops of rain in the middle of the night or afternoon.   They hardly matter.  

For heavy clay soils water regularly….to prevent drought….once every three or four days for twenty minutes……using a gentle sprinkle.    If the soil had already caked and cracked, apply a light sprinkle for ten minutes twice a day until the soil again become maleable.

More important….don’t allow your landscaped grounds to enter the world of water deprivation.   Not too many people I know enjoy standing at each plant for ten minutes hand watering their flocks.  Especially if the plants number in the hundreds…..or thousands.

Nothing made my home grounds more attractive, alive and lush than when my irrigation system was intstalled.   (Note….I lucked out regarding the soil which anchors and nourishes this lushness.  It is the best loam ever……I bought my home property totally unaware of this blessing, 37 years ago.)

If you have not been watering your landscape grounds regularly…..Start NOW.   

If you want to be relieved of the ‘pain’ of watering or the angst of remembering when to water, give us a call at 952-933-5777.     We have the best landscape garden installer and fixer available.   He, too, is an artist.   I wouldn’t have any other grounds irrigation ‘guru’ touch my own landscape garden…..but I’ll share him with you.  Give us a call.   An irrigation system for your home grounds isn’t very expensive……especially if you cannot keep your home grounds plants alive.

MOST PLANT DEATHS IN THE HOME GROUNDS ARE CAUSE BY DROUGHT…….that is the lack of reliable watering.

Heat of temperature does make a difference…..As you’d expect, high temperatures  increase stress on all garden plants…..including on you, their caretaker.

August 29, 2011

September is Fall for Evergreen Conifers Too!

Filed under: Plant health, garden seasons, shrubs and trees — glenn @ 9:16 am

……..and this year September is arriving a bit early for my Swiss Stone Pines……the interior needles are beginning to turn yellowish. 

Autumn begins June 21st or is it the 22nd now with the beginning of the shortenning of the day.  Our Northland’s deciduous trees are already  working on cutting  off their today’s leaves.   Nearly all will be dropped by November 1st, year in and year out.

Some of us are lucky enough to grow white oaks on our property.   Many of these beauties maintain their tanned leaves all winter long.   Some Ironwoods do as well.

All of our northern conifers lose at least their oldest brand of foliage, that which is most interior  to the trunk.   This is a September affair in the Twin Cities and surroundings. 

Tamaracks, also know as Larch, are evergreens which are not really evergreens.   Their ’needles’  turn a bright yellow in September and all are discarded in a matter of a week or two.  

By the way, it is almost a crime to call Tamarack foliage ‘needles’.   The species has among the most gentle foliage to the human touch know in Nature.   The tree is much neglected in the northern landscape garden.

This year my Swiss Stone Pines seem to be yellowing in their interiors  already.  It is normally early. 

If any of your conifer trees  display yellowing foliage in June or July, you most likely have a problem with a fungal leaf blight.   Many spruce and yews are especially susceptible to such blights which attack the older needles, but permit the young to flourish for a year before they are killed as well.    Countless sickly Colorado Spruce, once proud and beautiful in its ‘blue’, stand ‘ugly as sin’ plagued by fungal disorders.    Most are treatable, but treatment tends to be long term…..especially if the spruce are located in shade.

May 3, 2011

A Report on Spring 2011

Filed under: Bulbs, Plant health, battling the Minnesota climate — glenn @ 10:54 pm

May first is the normal time for Leonard Messel or Dr. Merrill Magnolias to begin blooming in my landscape garden.   Normal meaning over the past thirty years.   Normal meaning this year….despite the relatively miserable Spring….more accurate ……the absent Spring  thus far.

Dutch bulbs have done well.   At last my Siberian Squill have weeded enough to cover masses of space with the most beautiful blue matching any in the world.   For you beginning your landscape garden world, keep note that it does take about ten years for these masses tobecome  large enough to make a powerful floral statement….for about a week to ten days.   Those with only half day sun bloom a few days behind those in the open.  

There will be a down side when the foliage sinesces…in about two or three weeks.  Don’t fret and do not cut the foliage back after bloom.   Any of these minor….or major …..Dutch bulbs need their greenery after bloom to restore the bulb with energy to produce another display next season.  It’s a good time to fertilize with a fertilizer a bit higher ratio  in phosporous.

The yellowing Siberian Squill (also called Scilla) foliage will last about a week, often less, but will disappear without your interference.   Squill will spread throughout any area in which the soil is exposed and not under water.  

Snowdrops are earliest bulb bloomers in my grounds.   Winter aconite would show second, but not this year.   They were a no show.   I have trouble keeping them for any length of time.  Perhaps artificial watering is a problem.

Remember all Narcissus are  immune from rodent munchings.  Unfortunately the  color selection isn’t very broad.  Hyacinths with their exceptional fragrance aren’t particularly bothered by rabbits in my grounds.   Crocus and tulips are another matter.

Some years ago I was planting some crocus at a client’s garden.   I had several dozen crocus in an open box on the bed of my pick up truck, which was in sight from where I was planting crocus.  

I happened to look up just in time to see two squirrels  leaving the truck bed looking very pleased with themselve…..and I immediately guessed why.   They had ripped into the webbed bags containing the crocus.   About ten of the  fifty were gone and some remains were apparent what had happened.

Some seasons I had the viscious purple crocus bloom at the same time as the swaths of scilla…..and exceptional sight, but a few years later the crocus had disappeared.

Puschkinias bloom at the same time as Siberian Squill and Chionodoxa….and they all have been in great display during this past verycold week and are still blooming.

The evergreen groundcover, Pachysandra terminalis, is also in bloom now.   In masses one can pick up their sweet fragrance on the warmer spring days……   The dwarf Frittilarias are also blooming.

Most cookie cutter landscapes don’t use many if any of the countless new evergreen varieties on the market these day.   As their new foliar buds swell the colors, usually a lighter and sometimes a brighter shade than the more mature foliage, make them appear to be in bloom as well.

So many of this year’s more mature conifers look crappy even if they did survive without severe damage from last winter’s onslaughts.   I have lost two Hetz Junipers, one Tendergreen Juniper and one deGroot’s Arborvitae all of which were leveled by the November 13, 2010 wet and heavy 24-30 inch snowfall.   Two Woodward Arborvitaes were crushed and one mature Techny broke in half.   The storm damaged twenty or more other major plantings…..destroying an Indian Summer crapapple, ripped a major branch off an unknown named  pure white blooming cultivar…..and ravaged my White Pine.

Well, there is always tomorrow, if the sun will decide to appear…..and  my white rockcress opened up today.  What a white.   I have four or five beds of this unfailing white flowering groundcover, Arabis caucasica.   Last Spring all beds were in bloom for a day short of a month.

October 19, 2010

Autumn Duties for the Landscape Gardener

What are the regular routines for the Landscape Gardener to maintain the home grounds in the best condition going into winter?

Watering:   There is much debate over what the autumn to late autumn watering schedule should be for the Twin City area landscaped grounds.  Some ‘professors’ profess continued regular watering until the hard frosts; others suggest withholding water gradually to assist the plants hardening off for the cold misery of winter.  Plants here usually mean woody plants.

Not all plants are equal.  Herbaceous perennials are much more ephemeral in the grounds than cold tolerant trees and shrubs.  Not all autumns are equal either.  This passing October was wet at first and then decided to move into a beautiful season of cool, sunny, colorful, gorgeous and DRY Minnesota autumn…..going waterless  on almost three weeks now….and I think it is great even though I have had to use the sprinkler since I had my irrigation system winterized early this year.

In this case I believe watering the shrubs and trees about every fourth day at twenty minutes or so a spot, during such a period would be enough.  Soil type can be a factor if you are unlucky enough to garden over soil of heavy clay.   Sandy soils are much easier to manage with watering……less intensity but more frequency than normal.   Clay soils which have not dried out during the heat of summer to brick, don’t need to be watered much in the autumn regardless of the temperatures.  Hot, dry October winds might cause some reconsiderations.

October temperatures are cool.  Heavy watering can be damaging to some conifers which become shaded with the sun ”falling’ toward the horizon here in our Northland.  Foliar disease are especially ravaging on Colorado Blue Spruce.  Others damage tree yews.   Symptoms most observed are the withering of the interior older foliage.   Yews begin to lose their yellowing needles in late Spring.  Blue spruce will show a gray to brown sickly dried up crop of old needles and be dropping them about now.    One of my white pines has a foliar disease similar to these.

Shade, moisture, and lack of air movement to dry off the foliage reliably, are the collective causes of the unsightly disfuguration to many of our conifers.

Should hostas and other perennials be pruned back in fall or spring?   I grow hostas because they offer an artistic plus to my grounds, not because I am a hosta guru.  My entire grounds is a landscape garden.   Not all hostas are equal.  Some hold attractive foliage into very late autumn and others don’t.   Some are less hardy than others.   I cut back foliage on those whose foliage no longer please me IF I have time to do this clean up. 

However, there is one note which must stand firm and deeply in the Minnesota landscape gardener’s understanding of the onslaught of winter upon cherished garden plants, woody or not…..

The greatest threat to Minnesota landscape garden plants is the autumn disaster of temperatures dropping below ten below zero or more, Fahrenheit,  before Thanksgiving, and anything around twenty below zero before Christmas WITHOUT  snow. 

Snow is nature’s best insulator for outdoor plants.  The second best is certain kinds of leaf cover…..namely the kind called oak leaves.   Others may work or may cause additional troubles to garden plants.  I let oak leaves go where they may in my autumn garden.

Oak leaves are crinkly and don’t break down rapidly even despite wet weather.  They create air pockets over whatever ground the manage to cover.   If the gardener waits till Spring to cut back dead perennial foliage, the plant will be somewhat better protected through  a snowless frigid spell when  leaves of any kind are captured by any plant  ”stalks”. 

I am the only  groundskeeper of my landscape grounds.  Time available usually dictates my scheduling for manicuring the fall garden. 

Two years ago I lost four spreading yews and one twenty foot upright yew to winter kill.   The plants were in the garden for over fifteen years.   There was plenty of snow cover.  However, sometime in January over a weekend when the temperature had dropped to minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit, there was a steady thirty mile an hour wind from the North for two days.   A good friend in Waseca, Marian Fischer,  was certain her similar losses were due to that January windstorm.  

There is always the unexpected.

Major pruning of woody plants should wait until Spring, the earlier, usually the better.  The more one knows about pruning, the more one can safely disobey this recommendation, however.

Ideally, pruning  of apple, crabapple and pear trees should be done in late February or early March, to avoid the spread of  the bacterial disease called “Fireblight”.

So many special plants now growing in our more up-to-date landscaped grounds may require exceptional treatment for winter care for which we have no reliable information except for our own observations.

Those of you who live in the center Twin Cities and the immediate suburbs are now living in horticultural zone FIVE……. My ideal garden zone.  Where I live, west of Minneapolis, I can grow many zone five plants but I have be call my area, zone four and a half. 

Zone Five Japanese Beetles visited my grounds for the first time in known history this past summer.  One has to take the bad with the good if one is a devoted Landscape Gardener……And Japanese beetles are not good…..but if that is what it takes to get a little Global Warming to reach Zone five, I’ll accept it.

Many who live in the city have a serious rabbit and mouse problem…..especially in grounds surrounded by entrapping fencing.   Trap and kill, most serious landscape gardeners recommend.  Chicken wire fencing around the most susceptible plants such as Winged Euonumous or some of the Viburnums.     Some tender gardeners trap and relocate…..but that can go on for weeks and months.

I will recommend nothing here.  It is your call, dear fellow landscape gardener.

September 25, 2010

Autumn Yellowing of Conifer Foliage

It’s almost October.  In our Northland this is the time dramatic changes take place in the outdoors.  Actually, the changes begin  in late  June when the days begin to shorten…..The changes go  unnoticed until “autumn”.

….Until  this past week.  Visually, “the  fall” is here.

Every fall we get calls from friends regarding changes they notice on the foliage of  their pines or arborvitaes…..or on any of our conifers, for that matter, the trees and shrubs commonly called evergreens. 

The inner needles, that is, the inner foliage, begins to turn yellow or brownish and then drops off to the ground.  This is a normal process, the manner in which these trees shed their older needles. It occurs only in fall.

There are some foliar diseases which do attack older leaf growth  on conifers.  The more widespread the disease on its victim, the much thinner the foliage,  often reaching  the point where the only living needles left on the tree are those remaining from the year’s new growth in Spring. 

We can notice these scantilly leafed conifers especially on spruce, yews, chamaecyparis and arborvitae grown in deep shade especially where there is little air movement.

Needle drop caused by diseases usually does not occur in the fall.

Larch, which is often called tamarack, is a conifer which drops its foliage every autumn….after it displays a lovely yellow for a few days.  I believe the Japanese Larch have the brightest yellow for fall color.  The folliage of all larch is very pleasing to the touch.

Most larch are easy to grow and with the exception of the dwarfs, can get quite large.

Spring came quite early in 2010.  An early Spring usually means an early Autumn…and often, an early Winter. 

The foliage on the conifers is changing early this Autumn.

July 1, 2010

The Importance of Being Artificially Watered

Filed under: Plant health, The Art of Landscaping, garden maintenance — glenn @ 9:21 pm

We at Masterpiece Landscaping install grounds irrigation for the landscape garden.   

Nearly all of the folks trained to install irrigation systems know nothing about installing  such systems in the classical landscape garden.

What is the difference?

Imagine a half acre of lawn.  Only lawn….nothing but lawn; no maple trees here, arborvitaes and pine there, viburnum and magnolia, anemone and heuchera, sedum and “Hot Lips” turtlehead in sight.  Only lawn, with or without dandelions. 

Here installantion is simple and quite cheap.    Installation of irrigation into a landscape garden is often much more complex, primarily depending on the placements of the tree and shrub material.

If your dream is to create landscape beauty for your home or business grounds, plant your masterpiece first.  Let the irrigation follow the art, never the reverse, art following the irrigation system……unless, of course, you have no choice.

My family and I moved to my “landscape” canvas in Minnetonka where I still live, on January 1, 1974.   Immediately with the coming spring,   The grounds  “yard”  was almost entirely lawn.   I began at certain edges around the property to develop the privacy required for a landscape garden.   At that time I was heavy into pyramidal arborvitaes.  They were cheap, grew rapidly, and didn’t cause any shade.   Besides the foliage is very fragrant.  Moreover, I was sculpting my winter garden as well.  (None of the originals have survived to this day…..a result of a disastrous winter storm.)

Once established, arborvitaes (there are dozens and dozens of varieties) can tolerate the Twin City swings of water to drought quite well.   Holding on to money while raising a family was not as easy, so I never dreamed I could ever reach the patrician heights of owning a first class irrigation system for my landscape garden.  

I had it installed in 1990, but did not start to use it until  four or five years later….let’s estimate 1995. 

At that time my grounds already had sufficient structure and design to qualify as a “landscape garden”……but, barely, compared to its today’s form.   Yet, the grounds were generally attractive, but not melodious, not harmonizing, not grand.

“Gardens like people gain character with age” I have always reminded my landscape garden students.   My garden at age  twenty or so had not yet reached maturity.  Nor had its artist in so many respects. 

By 1998, by then three years into its water irrigation life, nearly everything within the grounds where the regular, reliable water reached appeared lush.

Today, no one, including me, is more astounded at the lushness of greenery  at every corner of these grounds.  And to taunt those of you who have not yet made this wise investment into  irrigating your own garden plants I do admit I face a new problem ever since regular watering became a way of my garden plants……

Astilbes have become a major weed  here. ( if you think with the traditional meaning of  weed…some plant showing up in your grounds which you didn’t plant and you feel you have to pull it.)  I have thousands, I do believe, from the fifty or so I have planted here in my life time.  Some are growing on logs.

 

But I am a staunch believer that “a weed is a plant out of place”.   By now the majority of plants on my landscape garden grounds are volunteers which I have artistically accepted into my family of plants which I enjoy being among.

Nothing has made my trees and shrubs  more healthy appearing, more rich and lush….and, yes, more beautiful than the introduction of artificial watering to my landscape garden.

P.S.  I no longer kill my favorite perennials while dragging a hose around for advantageous placements for watering.  I had learned to hate the garden hose.  Now we are more tolerant of each other.

Give us a call at Masterpiece Landscaping, 952-933-5777 to schedule your irrigation installation quote.

February 18, 2010

Conifers in Your Landscape: Overgrown? Priceless?

Filed under: Plant health — glenn @ 7:26 pm

Nearly every year a list of new plants appear on the market  for home landscpape use.  Most disappear after only a few years on the planting schedules.    Most of these plants are perennials.  Hostas, aquilegias,  heucheras come and go like revolving doors.  Some are better than others either in hardiness, fussiness, life expectancy, disease resistance, or assets such as flower or foliage color  or strength of stems or general form.

Among shrubs, Endless Summer Hydrangea has been a big disappointment among many  landscapers for their unreliability of blueness of bloom but also frequency of bloom.   I have noticed they do not perform well in shade, even in light shade, if color and frequency of bloom are demanded.  One can follow several regimens of acidifying and fertilizing, but the blue color isn’t always reliable even when you do.  

I find the plant still useful in the shade.  The foliage is always attractive even if bloom might be scarce.

Over the past twenty years the group of plants that have made the best showings in the Minnesota northern landscape gardens are the countless new dwarf and semi dwarf coniferous evergreens.   A few of these plants were available a half a century ago, but simply not available to the general market here in the Twin City area. 

Today,  nearly every hue from blue to green to chartreuse is available in various textures, growth patterns, shapes  and sizes.   As winter comes to its end, stop by the evergreen landscape gardens at the South entrance of Courage Center in Golden Valley.   As sunlight increases, the  colors sharpen to make a beautiful display both of individual conifers as well as those in combinations. 

When you see a specimen which especially interests you, be sure you find out the accurate and complete name….the most accurate being the official Latin name of the plant….but Rhinegold Arborvitae, Gentsch Hemlock, or Motherlode Juniper would be good enough.  Most nurserymen would recognize the plant accurately. 

Do remember not every evergreen is a pine.  Most are not.   So often homeowners will ask a question similar to …”I saw a pine yesterday at the nursery and it had the most beautiful yellow foliage.  It was a creeper with real tight foliage….and… would you know the name of it?”    Knowing the color and the texture and nature of the plant is very helpful…enough in this case to know that this conifer is not going to be a pine.

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